Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Fairendes, 2016 Z1ZPZphantom Named after an underground spring

Named after an underground spring on the property

and works in a resolutely old-school style: long macerations

2005 was a legendary Burgundy vintage — concentrated

This is the bottle that put Cantalapiedra on the map: a Verdejo with the kind of energy and verve that earns repeat visits

and at 30 years on the wine is in a generous mature window

Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Fairendes, 2016 Z1ZPZphantom Named after an underground springMorgeot makes the broadest, most unctuous whites in Chassagne, and Les Fairendes is the most renowned sector within it a vineyard within a vineyard, where poorer topsoil drives a deeper mineral expression than the land around it. Jean Marc Pillot owns a quarter hectare here planted in 1970, and he has deliberately been picking it a touch earlier in recent vintages to counterbalance the richness the site naturally produces; what you get is the